Today we went off-script. Although our itinerary had us driving and taking in the sights, after breakfast, I approached the man at the restaurant desk who also happened to be the captain for the boat to Grimsey. At 9am we met him, a local guide, and who I imagine was the captain’s little granddaughter, along with 3 other American travelers from New York.
It was overcast, although nearly every day has been, but dry and mainly calm. Our guide, a woman named Pat, told us about Grimsey’s founding. A group of 3 trolls wanted to separate the Westfjords from Iceland and began to dig. They had a competition to see who could make the most islands.
On one side, were a couple who easily made a bunch of islands in the shallow bay, each shovelful making a mound. On the other was a female troll with her ox. It was deeper on her side and her shovelfuls only created shoals in the water. It was coming on daylight and the trolls turn to stone in the day. The couple ran to a pass and became stones there, while the lone troll turned to run, but looked back at her handiwork. Seeing no islands for her pains, she grew angry and slammed her shovel into the earth, flinging it out over the water. That shovelful of earth became Grimsey and she rests, a statue, near our hotel.
Most of the birds have gone by now, but we still saw lots of puffins, fulmar, shags, and kittiwakes, and we were able to get very close to them. It was amazing, and I’d love to see it in spring with the razorbills and guillemots. The farmer who owns the island keeps sheep there and raises eiders for their down. All the tires strewn along the beaches are artificial nests to encourage the ducks to stay there. We even got to see starfish, jellyfish, and a purple sea urchin.
Afterward, we had lunch in Húsavík and drove to the seal museum. Small, but very interesting. I had no idea there were so many types of seals. So far we’ve only seen Harbor and Grey. Continuing on our drive, we saw 2 humpback whales breaching and blowing in the fjord.
We ended our day in Sauðárkrókur at a historic wood hotel. It’s noisy here because the walls are thin, but there’s a hot pool outside we took advantage of. It reminds me of the medieval days, though it’s not that old.
Oh, and I finally had horse. It was good, though not as distinguishable from beef as I though it would be. Still, I can say I’ve had it.